How to Set up a Paludarium

Introduction

The aim of this page is to give you some ideas about how to setup an effective Paludarium display. Paludariums can be simple to setup and maintain, but can add a fascinating twist to the usual "100% water" setup of a 'normal' aquarium.

What is a Paludarium?

Put simply, a Paludarium is a display that combines elements of aquatic and terrestrial environments. The word Paludarium comes from the latin words Palustris - meaning 'pertaining to marshes', and Arium - meaning 'confined area for'. For more information on the latest Paludarium display I have setup, please follow the 'Current Projects' link on the left-hand side of this page.

Suitable Aquariums

The success of your Paludarium display will largely hinge upon using a suitable aquarium for the purpose. Needless to say, a tall aquarium will be necessary if you want to have a reasonable depth of water and a reasonable 'dry' area above the water level. The amount of space you will require above and below the water level will depend on the type of animals (and plants, if applicable) you wish to keep. Below are some examples of previous paludarium displays I've set up, and the types of aquarium I used:

Setting up a Paludarium

For the purposes of this setup guide, I will demonstrate how I setup my Amazonian planted paludarium display.

Step 1 - Carefully rinse the aquarium to ensure you have removed any dust, debris etc. Site the aquarium in a suitable location. I deliberately sited this display near a window so that the terrestrial section of the display would receive plenty of sunlight. This is easier and cheaper than using a huge quantity of light units to illuminate the upper section of the display.

Step 2 - Thoroughly clean the substrate and decor for the display. I used silver sand, with a small quantity of fine gravel mixed in. I used large 'Mopani vines' to create a submerged tree root effect. I soaked the mopani vines for over a week before adding them to the aquarium - this was to leach out as many of the tannic acids as possible (which are harmless, but turn the water a dark brown colour). This process also ensured the vines were fully waterlogged - without this they will float to the surface and refuse to stay in position!

Step 3 - I arranged the mopani vines to cover as much of the back and sides of the display as possible, whilst still providing a relatively open area at the front of the display. I endeavored to conceal the heater and filter behind the vines (but ensuring they were still accessible for maintenance). I tried to arrange the vines in such a way that they would provide several flat areas above the water level where plants could be attached.

I also installed the lighting system, and added a few hardy aquatic plants to the substrate. I planted one Spatiphylum plant above the water level, with it's roots trailing into the water. The aim of this was to test whether there was enough humidity above the water level for this plant to flourish. I then left the display as it was for a period of two weeks for everything to settle in place.

The Mopani vines and a few hardy plants in place.

Step 4 - Before decided which plants you wish to grow, it is necessary to think about where you can attach plants above the surface, and what impact this will have below the surface. Clearly a mass of broad-leafed plants above the surface will cause a good deal of shade below the surface, which can cause difficulties for many plants. Think about the areas of shade the terrestrial plants will create, and plan your aquatic planting accordingly.

It is worth planting the aquatic element of the display before the terrestrial for two reasons - it will be easier to see what you are doing without terrestrial leaves getting in your way; and you will give the aquatic plants a good change to establish themselves un-inhibited by shading from above. By all means add a few 'token' plants above the surface to create some interest, but hold fire on the majority of these plants for the time being!

The plants flourish below the surface, with a few 'token' plants above the surface.

Once the aquatic plants are settled in, start adding the terrestrial plants. Pay careful attention to where you place these plants - allow a reasonable space between plants as they will probably grow rapidly. The display will look infinitely more realistic if you place these plants in small clumps of the same species, rather than lots of odd plants scattered around. For an added touch of realism, plant some of the terrestrial varieties below the water to further suggest a flooded river bank.

Secure the plants to the vertical vines using elastic bands attached around the vines. The roots of the terrestrial plants can then be gently fed through the elastic bands, with the roots trailing in the water. If you have purchased these plants from an aquatic store, they should be prepared by carefully removing the baskets and rockwool the roots are packed into.

Red 'Nightshade' ferns above the water surface. Note the elastic band securing the plant in the bottom-left corner.

View from above - looking down towards the water surface. Notice the Salvinia floating plants.

Step 5 - In this display I opted for a shoal of Cardinal tetras, Ottocinclus and Corydoras for keeping the tank clean, a pair of Blue Rams, and finally a small group of Hatchetfish to provide some movement at the water surface. As with any display, the fish should be added gradually, with the hardiest being added first.

Step 6 - Sit back and watch! It can take a considerable time for the plants, especially those in a terrestrial setting, to establish themselves. Allow 6 months from first setting up your planted paludarium, to it looking superb!